Post by starmanp on Mar 19, 2009 23:13:42 GMT -5
I just bought a neon tree dragon aka japalura and i looked on the net for them not to much info all i know is that they are carnivores eating crickets,meal worms, pinky mice, if any one has any more or better info please let me know 
thanks
Name Note: You’ll see these lizards under a variety of names. One place calls calotes bloodsuckers. You’ll also see other lizards sold as tree dragons. Since they run wild where they come from, various suppliers like to give lizards different names. (That was the calotes running wild, not the suppliers. Although ...)
Arboreal: As their name implies, these guys live in trees. They need limbs to climb on and plenty of room.
Appeal: Low price and bright colors (blues, bright greens, reds, purples on the versicolors) combine to make these an appealing lizard. The dragon-like crests on the males add to their appeal.
Maximum Size: Most of these guys top out under a foot in length. It will take a few years before yours reaches its theoretical maximum size.
Housing: Give your calotes plenty of room. They need elbow room. Wood branches with hanging vines will make them feel at home.
Foods: In the wild, this species eats lots of ants. (They’re one of the few lizards that will eat ants. The horned lizard eats harvester ants.) In captivity calotes adapt easily to crickets. An occasional pinkie will provide the calcium they need.
Temperature: Provide a tropical temperature for them – at least 80o. Higher works even better. Tropical lizards fare very poorly at cooler temperatures. Low temps slow their digestion and metabolism. This makes them susceptible to disease. Healthy lizards usually fight off the effects of internal parasites and invading bacteria.
Temperament: Not exactly as “handleable” as water dragons, you’ll need to move slowly around these guys – particularly at first. Don’t expect them to sit calmly on your shoulder (except in cold weather).
High Humidity: Calotes need a great deal of humidity. Mist them daily at a minimum. A water bowl with a bubbling airstone works better as does a burbling waterfall. Some fairly economical waterfalls now exist on the market. You no longer need to build your own.
Plants: Feel free to add live plants to their tank. Calotes do not destroy vegetation
Water: Provide plenty of clean water. Dirty, unchanged water causes stress and eventual death.
Lighting: You’ll need a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb. Diurnal lizards (those that work the day shift) need UVA and UVB light to make the vitamin D3 they use to build their bones.
Supplements: You increase your chances of success when you dust their crickets with a calcium and vitamin supplement on a weekly or twice a week basis.
Last Word: You can mix calotes with similar-sized, non-aggressive lizards, IF you give them plenty of room and keep them well fed. Hungry lizards often eat other lizards.
thanksName Note: You’ll see these lizards under a variety of names. One place calls calotes bloodsuckers. You’ll also see other lizards sold as tree dragons. Since they run wild where they come from, various suppliers like to give lizards different names. (That was the calotes running wild, not the suppliers. Although ...)
Arboreal: As their name implies, these guys live in trees. They need limbs to climb on and plenty of room.
Appeal: Low price and bright colors (blues, bright greens, reds, purples on the versicolors) combine to make these an appealing lizard. The dragon-like crests on the males add to their appeal.
Maximum Size: Most of these guys top out under a foot in length. It will take a few years before yours reaches its theoretical maximum size.
Housing: Give your calotes plenty of room. They need elbow room. Wood branches with hanging vines will make them feel at home.
Foods: In the wild, this species eats lots of ants. (They’re one of the few lizards that will eat ants. The horned lizard eats harvester ants.) In captivity calotes adapt easily to crickets. An occasional pinkie will provide the calcium they need.
Temperature: Provide a tropical temperature for them – at least 80o. Higher works even better. Tropical lizards fare very poorly at cooler temperatures. Low temps slow their digestion and metabolism. This makes them susceptible to disease. Healthy lizards usually fight off the effects of internal parasites and invading bacteria.
Temperament: Not exactly as “handleable” as water dragons, you’ll need to move slowly around these guys – particularly at first. Don’t expect them to sit calmly on your shoulder (except in cold weather).
High Humidity: Calotes need a great deal of humidity. Mist them daily at a minimum. A water bowl with a bubbling airstone works better as does a burbling waterfall. Some fairly economical waterfalls now exist on the market. You no longer need to build your own.
Plants: Feel free to add live plants to their tank. Calotes do not destroy vegetation
Water: Provide plenty of clean water. Dirty, unchanged water causes stress and eventual death.
Lighting: You’ll need a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb. Diurnal lizards (those that work the day shift) need UVA and UVB light to make the vitamin D3 they use to build their bones.
Supplements: You increase your chances of success when you dust their crickets with a calcium and vitamin supplement on a weekly or twice a week basis.
Last Word: You can mix calotes with similar-sized, non-aggressive lizards, IF you give them plenty of room and keep them well fed. Hungry lizards often eat other lizards.
One thing you can do... is find out there geographical location in the world then see if there are some nature parks or something, universitys or anything like that, they might be able to give you some more information. As those lizards are part of there everyday life 
