Post by geekcoboy103 on Aug 30, 2006 12:24:02 GMT -5
This is a care sheet for the Ackie Monitor that was posted by OIpunk1980 on Herp Domain.
Enjoy.
Varanus Acanthuras-Ackie Monitor
Intorduction
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Varanus acanthuras acanthuras (red ackie), Varanus acanthuras brochyuras (yellow ackie), and Varanus acanthuras insulanicus are the three known members of the acanhuras complex. They belong to the sub genus odatria (dwarf monitors), which average from sizes of 8 inches to about 3 feet. Most weigh between 100-350 grams, but some weigh about 20-30 grams. Other monitors in the sub genus odatria are the tristis complex (black headed, an freckled monitors), varanus pilarensis (pilbara rock monitor, varanus timorensis (timor monitor), and the list goes on.
Ackies usually grow to about 24-28 inches, although there have been rumors of big 1 meter (39 inches) long Ackies. Ackies are also known as ridge tailed goannas and spiny tailed goannas. They do posses a spined tail, actually the first time I saw an ackie I was suprised at how spiny the tail actually was. Their spiny tail is used to block the entrance to their burrows which usually have an area of 0.5 meters sq. (19.5 inches) and an average depth of only about 8-9 inches deep. They are known to live on rocky out croppings in Australia (Australia is the only place they are found, in the wild at least) and they may possably live in spenifex grasses. Where numerous other reptiles (including blue tongue skinks), insects, and rodents live. Red ackies are (as you guessed) red in color with vibrant yellow ocelli (spots) running down their backs. Yellow aackies are obviously yellow. They have dark yellow to red-orange ocelli.
Ackies are usually rather calm in the sense that they will usually not bite in captivity. All Ackies sold in the pet trade are CBB because they are from Australia, where it is illeagl to export live animals. And since ackie are CBB that makes them a wonderful choice for an enrty level monitor. Their cost range is from 175$-350$+ reds being more expensive than the yellows. They are also very energetic, all the attitude and energy of an Argus monitor packed into a smaller package. The rest of this “care sheet” is devoted to explaining the captive husbandry techinques that I use with my Ackie monitor.
Housing & lighting/heating
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
For housing an Ackie monitor I would recomend a 3x2x2 (LWH) enclosure for a single adult. A 4x2x2 (LWH) enclosure can hold a trio for each addtional animal I recomend adding an extra 1 ½- 2 square feet of floor space. For baby ackies a 20 gallon long enclosure with a good top-soil substrate that is at least 4 inches deep (for babies). Make sure to cover atleast ¾ of the screen top of the 20 gal. When the monitors read at least 12 inches you can move them into their permanent enclosures. I highly recomend building a custom enclosure, with LITTLE ventalation. No open screen doors, tops, sides, etc. screen releases heat and humidity very, very fast. My enclosure is built out of ¾ inch ply wood that is coated in 5 coats of oil based polyurethane (you can use watr based polyurethane but it does not protect for as long as an oil based ployurethane would) and sealed at the seems with GE silicone. I have sliding acrylic (can be bought from glasscages.com) doors on the enclosure. Make sure the dorrs are at least 12 inches above the bottom of the cage so you can allow for a deep substrate. I have the basking light mounted on the ceiling of the cage with a 2 foot shop flouresent fixture on the ceiling to (just to light the cage up), make sure the monitor can’t come in contact with the light.
I use exclusively 45 watt out door flood lights (and 75 watt indoor recessed/track flood lights), and a 2 foot regular flouresent tube (again just to light the cage up. No need for the so-called “special” UVB bulbs, in my opinion they are just rip-offs).
I have my basking temperature at 130-140 degrees F (keep in mind those are surface temperatures NOT air temperatures. I have seen basking spots that had hot spots of up tp 200 degrees F (again these are SURFACE temperatures). The ambient temp of my enclosure is about 75-85 F degrees. It is very important to offer a hot basking spot a warm side of the enclosure that is about 90 degrees F and a cool side of about 75 degrees F. I recomend leaving the lights on 24/7, but having photoperiods really won’t hurt from my experience. Humidity, most people think: Australia, desert, dry, not humid. Wrong Australia has about 55-60% humidity, so you should to for you ackie.
DO NOT use those stupid hot rocks they are dangerous for your reptile. Also I would advise NOT using heatpads because these lizards do dig to the bottom of their enclosures and will burn themselves.
Substrate
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Substrate is one of the most overlooked aspects of monitor keeping (along with quarentineing, and proper nutrtion, and of course proper husbandry), at least by beginners to the hobby of monitors. DO NOT use bark, newspaper, or sand (at least 100% sand). Use good old dirt. If you collect pesticide free soil from outside then that is great. Dirt from creek beds is espeacially good for monitors. Make sure you sift the dirt in order to remove any rocks, bugs, twigs, etc. Now of you can’t collect dirt from outdoors than my number 1 choice would be decomposed granite. Not too corse but not too fine either. Decomposed granite is deffenently one of the BEST substrates to use for monitors. My number 2 choice would be a mixture of non-organice top soil, peat moss, and playsand (which can be found at your local Lowes or Home Depot) about a 50/25/25 ratio of those subsrates and the right ammount of moisture will produce a very workable substrate. The substrate should be atleast 8 inches deep. The occasional wetting of the substrate is important to keep the consistency that you have found works best. There is a technique that some people use, they collaspe the burrows after 2 weeks. I find this meathod pointless maybe do it every 6 months or year but no to often. I think that would stress the animal.
Cage furniture
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some have these elaborate beautiful set-ups for their monitors, but guess what, 9 times out of 10 these enclosure do no good what so ever for the monitor. I have 8 inches of dirt a custom made half buried hide box (so he can dig into the ground, through the entrace of this hidebox.) a medium sized water bowl and a Retes stack (screwing on two 12inch long (you can go as big as you need) 2x2s onto a 12x12 inch piece of ply wood and then making aas many of those as you want then stacking them so they imitate rock crevices). You don’t need any of those fancy hide spots that cost 20 bucks they don’t make the animal feel safe. Remember keep it simple.
Feeding and nutrtion
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I feed almost exclusively crickets and dusted crickets. My monitor is not very fond of super and meal worms. I have never tried lobster roaches. They are (from what I have herd) very healthy (healthier than crickets) and are very easy to breed. I also feed thwed/boiled and supplemented ground turkey about once a month, I find it very good for an occasional treat. Some poeple get int the hobby of monitors to watch them devour rodents and whatnot. If that is why you want the monitor than you should NOT be getting a monitor. I find that when a monitor gets sick, or hurt and can’t chase the rodent around and slaughter it than the owner doesn’t want it anymore. I have never fed and probably will never feed my ackie a pinky or fuzzie. These monitors have small digestive systems, loading them up with meat not only makes their temper shorter but can also cause intestianal blockage (which should never happen if your temperatures are correct your basking spot is 130-140 degrees F). Plus an ackie eating a pinky is the equivelent to a human eating a stick of butter.
Feed babies crickets evrey day and two times a day every other day. Feed adults 5-6 times a week once day. I would dust the insects with a calcium powder almost evrey insect feeding and a vitamin powder every other, other insect feeding. I wonly dust maybe ¼ of the amount of crickets my ackie is recieving that day.
Some words on Varanus Acnthuras as a captive
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ackies are by far the best monitors for novive to advanced keepers. They are plain fun to keep. I can say forget pretty much everything you have read about any monitor, because it is probably a bunch of bullshi* (for the forums LOL*) anyway. Also remember that size dosn’t matter when keeping monitors, think to your self before you buy that Black throat monitor, can I really house a 6 foot lizard? Can I porvide the proper food? Or should I look at a monitor that is more realistic and economical to me?
Here are some great monitor sites-
proexotics.com
kingsnake.com
varanus.net
treemonitors.com
mampam.com
themonitorspot.com
varanuscreations.com
some books to read-
The truth about varanus exanthematicus by D. Bennet and R. Thakoordyal
The natural history and captive husbandry of monitors by D. Bennet
The biology of varanids by King & Green
Nile Monitors by Robert Foast
and anything by Walter Auffenburg
some books NOT to read-
Savanna & Grassland monitors
Monitors and Tegus
Popular monitor and tegu species
Enjoy.
Varanus Acanthuras-Ackie Monitor
Intorduction
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Varanus acanthuras acanthuras (red ackie), Varanus acanthuras brochyuras (yellow ackie), and Varanus acanthuras insulanicus are the three known members of the acanhuras complex. They belong to the sub genus odatria (dwarf monitors), which average from sizes of 8 inches to about 3 feet. Most weigh between 100-350 grams, but some weigh about 20-30 grams. Other monitors in the sub genus odatria are the tristis complex (black headed, an freckled monitors), varanus pilarensis (pilbara rock monitor, varanus timorensis (timor monitor), and the list goes on.
Ackies usually grow to about 24-28 inches, although there have been rumors of big 1 meter (39 inches) long Ackies. Ackies are also known as ridge tailed goannas and spiny tailed goannas. They do posses a spined tail, actually the first time I saw an ackie I was suprised at how spiny the tail actually was. Their spiny tail is used to block the entrance to their burrows which usually have an area of 0.5 meters sq. (19.5 inches) and an average depth of only about 8-9 inches deep. They are known to live on rocky out croppings in Australia (Australia is the only place they are found, in the wild at least) and they may possably live in spenifex grasses. Where numerous other reptiles (including blue tongue skinks), insects, and rodents live. Red ackies are (as you guessed) red in color with vibrant yellow ocelli (spots) running down their backs. Yellow aackies are obviously yellow. They have dark yellow to red-orange ocelli.
Ackies are usually rather calm in the sense that they will usually not bite in captivity. All Ackies sold in the pet trade are CBB because they are from Australia, where it is illeagl to export live animals. And since ackie are CBB that makes them a wonderful choice for an enrty level monitor. Their cost range is from 175$-350$+ reds being more expensive than the yellows. They are also very energetic, all the attitude and energy of an Argus monitor packed into a smaller package. The rest of this “care sheet” is devoted to explaining the captive husbandry techinques that I use with my Ackie monitor.
Housing & lighting/heating
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
For housing an Ackie monitor I would recomend a 3x2x2 (LWH) enclosure for a single adult. A 4x2x2 (LWH) enclosure can hold a trio for each addtional animal I recomend adding an extra 1 ½- 2 square feet of floor space. For baby ackies a 20 gallon long enclosure with a good top-soil substrate that is at least 4 inches deep (for babies). Make sure to cover atleast ¾ of the screen top of the 20 gal. When the monitors read at least 12 inches you can move them into their permanent enclosures. I highly recomend building a custom enclosure, with LITTLE ventalation. No open screen doors, tops, sides, etc. screen releases heat and humidity very, very fast. My enclosure is built out of ¾ inch ply wood that is coated in 5 coats of oil based polyurethane (you can use watr based polyurethane but it does not protect for as long as an oil based ployurethane would) and sealed at the seems with GE silicone. I have sliding acrylic (can be bought from glasscages.com) doors on the enclosure. Make sure the dorrs are at least 12 inches above the bottom of the cage so you can allow for a deep substrate. I have the basking light mounted on the ceiling of the cage with a 2 foot shop flouresent fixture on the ceiling to (just to light the cage up), make sure the monitor can’t come in contact with the light.
I use exclusively 45 watt out door flood lights (and 75 watt indoor recessed/track flood lights), and a 2 foot regular flouresent tube (again just to light the cage up. No need for the so-called “special” UVB bulbs, in my opinion they are just rip-offs).
I have my basking temperature at 130-140 degrees F (keep in mind those are surface temperatures NOT air temperatures. I have seen basking spots that had hot spots of up tp 200 degrees F (again these are SURFACE temperatures). The ambient temp of my enclosure is about 75-85 F degrees. It is very important to offer a hot basking spot a warm side of the enclosure that is about 90 degrees F and a cool side of about 75 degrees F. I recomend leaving the lights on 24/7, but having photoperiods really won’t hurt from my experience. Humidity, most people think: Australia, desert, dry, not humid. Wrong Australia has about 55-60% humidity, so you should to for you ackie.
DO NOT use those stupid hot rocks they are dangerous for your reptile. Also I would advise NOT using heatpads because these lizards do dig to the bottom of their enclosures and will burn themselves.
Substrate
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Substrate is one of the most overlooked aspects of monitor keeping (along with quarentineing, and proper nutrtion, and of course proper husbandry), at least by beginners to the hobby of monitors. DO NOT use bark, newspaper, or sand (at least 100% sand). Use good old dirt. If you collect pesticide free soil from outside then that is great. Dirt from creek beds is espeacially good for monitors. Make sure you sift the dirt in order to remove any rocks, bugs, twigs, etc. Now of you can’t collect dirt from outdoors than my number 1 choice would be decomposed granite. Not too corse but not too fine either. Decomposed granite is deffenently one of the BEST substrates to use for monitors. My number 2 choice would be a mixture of non-organice top soil, peat moss, and playsand (which can be found at your local Lowes or Home Depot) about a 50/25/25 ratio of those subsrates and the right ammount of moisture will produce a very workable substrate. The substrate should be atleast 8 inches deep. The occasional wetting of the substrate is important to keep the consistency that you have found works best. There is a technique that some people use, they collaspe the burrows after 2 weeks. I find this meathod pointless maybe do it every 6 months or year but no to often. I think that would stress the animal.
Cage furniture
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some have these elaborate beautiful set-ups for their monitors, but guess what, 9 times out of 10 these enclosure do no good what so ever for the monitor. I have 8 inches of dirt a custom made half buried hide box (so he can dig into the ground, through the entrace of this hidebox.) a medium sized water bowl and a Retes stack (screwing on two 12inch long (you can go as big as you need) 2x2s onto a 12x12 inch piece of ply wood and then making aas many of those as you want then stacking them so they imitate rock crevices). You don’t need any of those fancy hide spots that cost 20 bucks they don’t make the animal feel safe. Remember keep it simple.
Feeding and nutrtion
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I feed almost exclusively crickets and dusted crickets. My monitor is not very fond of super and meal worms. I have never tried lobster roaches. They are (from what I have herd) very healthy (healthier than crickets) and are very easy to breed. I also feed thwed/boiled and supplemented ground turkey about once a month, I find it very good for an occasional treat. Some poeple get int the hobby of monitors to watch them devour rodents and whatnot. If that is why you want the monitor than you should NOT be getting a monitor. I find that when a monitor gets sick, or hurt and can’t chase the rodent around and slaughter it than the owner doesn’t want it anymore. I have never fed and probably will never feed my ackie a pinky or fuzzie. These monitors have small digestive systems, loading them up with meat not only makes their temper shorter but can also cause intestianal blockage (which should never happen if your temperatures are correct your basking spot is 130-140 degrees F). Plus an ackie eating a pinky is the equivelent to a human eating a stick of butter.
Feed babies crickets evrey day and two times a day every other day. Feed adults 5-6 times a week once day. I would dust the insects with a calcium powder almost evrey insect feeding and a vitamin powder every other, other insect feeding. I wonly dust maybe ¼ of the amount of crickets my ackie is recieving that day.
Some words on Varanus Acnthuras as a captive
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ackies are by far the best monitors for novive to advanced keepers. They are plain fun to keep. I can say forget pretty much everything you have read about any monitor, because it is probably a bunch of bullshi* (for the forums LOL*) anyway. Also remember that size dosn’t matter when keeping monitors, think to your self before you buy that Black throat monitor, can I really house a 6 foot lizard? Can I porvide the proper food? Or should I look at a monitor that is more realistic and economical to me?
Here are some great monitor sites-
proexotics.com
kingsnake.com
varanus.net
treemonitors.com
mampam.com
themonitorspot.com
varanuscreations.com
some books to read-
The truth about varanus exanthematicus by D. Bennet and R. Thakoordyal
The natural history and captive husbandry of monitors by D. Bennet
The biology of varanids by King & Green
Nile Monitors by Robert Foast
and anything by Walter Auffenburg
some books NOT to read-
Savanna & Grassland monitors
Monitors and Tegus
Popular monitor and tegu species